End Of The Road

Edinburgh, Scotland - One last look before heading to the bus that will take me to London to catch my flight home. Home. Sounds sweet right now. Back to blue skies and sunshine and a deck with a cat on my lap and a book in my hand. A refreshment perhaps. Then... who knows. The road that I've been on ends here and there isn't a plan beyond this point. So... onward I must go. Come what way. Eye on the step before me. Eli Camino.

Watching The Worlds

World Highland Dancing Championship, Dunoon, Scotland Aug 26/17 - The top dancers from around the world have gathered to see who is in their best form today. Emerald's teacher (in red) from Canada is one of the 20 finalists in the adult group. It's a tough competition. They all look exceptional to me. In the end, there's a tie, and the reigning champ (from Canada) is defeated by a margin in points by a young woman from Scotland. The locals are pleased! It's quite touching to be a witness. This was our day.

Cowal Ceilidh

Cowal Highland Gathering, Dunoon, Scotland Aug 25/17 - We're out after a rigorous day of highland dancing... And enthusiastic spectating. Time now to chill and enjoy the hum and drum of the Celtic sound. Complete with fiddle, whistle, and bagpipe. The band has geared it up and the tent has filled with locals out for a night of fun. Ready to raise "heel and toe" in the ceilidh. We've joined them for a wee bit before heading back to our cozy cottage, and placing our feet in the reclined position - heels down, toes up. 

On Firth For Fling

The Cowal Peninsula, Scotland - On a wee trip via taxi, bus, train, bus, and ferry to cross the firth (aka "bay"). On our way to the Cowal Highland Gathering and World Highland Dancing Championship where Emerald will be dancing. A rest day first. Time to relax before the big dance day with fling, reel, seann triubhas (Gaelic for "old trousers) and sword dance. The bagpiped songs on repeat for the 64, 12 year old competitors. Not to mention other age groups. So taking today to enjoy the view of the great hills all around. The Cowal Way is out there calling for walkers like myself. Sadly it will have to wait for another time.

Highland Photo Shoot

Arthur's Seat, Edinburgh, Scotland - Had a fun afternoon climbing to this high spot overlooking Edinburgh Castle and the stadium where we would sit later in the evening for the Royal Military Tattoo. It was a good spot for Emerald to dress up in kilt and tutu to do a few poses for the camera. Afterward we would enjoy "high tea" in Palm Court at the Balmoral and a ride on the giant Edinburgh Festival Wheel. A day full of high points, not least of all the mass gathering of pipers, dancers and marching bands to close the day.

Great Scott!

The Scott Monument, Edinburgh, Scotland -  The first order of business upon arrival was to join my niece, Emerald, in climbing this 287 step, 4 level tower. See that area right around the point? We were there. It was like climbing out through the hole of a sea shell. A fitting entry into the highlands. I love heights! All around the city I see hills. Tomorrow we climb up upon Arthur's Seat. Sounds like a good place to be.

Completing The Circuit

York Racecourse, Yorkshire, UK - Came full circle today, not a horse in sight. Mostly just dog walkers making use of this 2 mile track. It's massive. I can imagine how exciting it gets here on race days. I'm feeling a little less excited about coming to the finish line of my own race, a.k.a. Camino. Stories continue and so will mine. Off to Scotland in the morning for a wee week with my wee sister and wee niece... And then...?

Evensong

York Minster, Yorkshire, UK Aug 19/17 - What better way to experience a massive old cathedral, with a sordid history, than to sit in its inner chapel and hear the songs of evening prayer. Voices echoing in the vaulted ceiling. Organ with its stops pulled and pipes full of a sound that can only be truly appreciated in a grand space like this. It's hard not to look up and all around and take in all the workmanship of the building, 240 years in the making... And more recently 300 years in an ongoing process of restoring.

Weekend In York

York, Yorkshire, UK Aug 18/17 - Home for the weekend. Just having a quick peek at this "must see" place in northern England. Spent most of yesterday on the bus getting here. Time to process all that's gone on in these UK days. London, Cornwall, Devon, Wiltshire, Bath, Somerset, The Cotswolds. Art, beaches, cliffs, countryside, history, mystery, architecture, friendship, beauty, blackberries, biking, flying, walking, pubs, theatre. Harry Potter, Jane Austen, Zombies, Poldark. English bliss.

Night At The Theatre

Theatre Royal Bath, UK Aug 17/17 - One last evening out with two of my favourite mates from the Camino. A play called Lady In The Van by Alan Bennett. An older, cantankerous, and slightly delusional woman parks her unsightly "home" on the author's front garden for what turns out to be 15 years. Bit of a laugh. I've parked myself here outside of Bath now for two weeks and it's time to go. Best not get too comfortable as it would be easy to stick around. Bye for now Corsham.

Biking To Bath

Bradford-On-Avon to Bath Spa, UK Aug 16/17 - Enjoying the scenic beauty of the English countryside. Christian and I on our borrowed bikes. The canal boats quietly coming and going. All of us moving along at our leisure. No one wanting to hurry up this perfect summer day. I count my blessings, pushing aside the thoughts that my time for leaving comes soon. Today I simply ride. Our destination, the Roman Baths. More beauty to discover.

Up, Up In The Air

Over Avebury Henge, Wiltshire, UK - First of all, I'm flying! And if that were all I could say, the day would be complete. But it continues on with a tour of the Cotswolds. A beautiful walk through English countryside. Visits to hidden away churches and villages untouched by the tourist trade. Horse whispering. Sheep encounters. Berry picking. And basically just continued bliss, that I'm frightfully aware will soon come to a close, ending this chapter of the elicamino. For now I will bask in the glory of this day.

MacMillan Way

Castle Coombe, Wiltshire, UK - No matter where you look in this part of England, you see a town or landscape that reminds you of a movie set... And chances are it has indeed appeared on the big screen, like this little village used in the movie War Horse. Surrounded by beautiful countryside with "public foot paths" that cross over brooks, walk you up hillside and along tree covered paths. We got our hiking shoes on, with map in hand and maps.me on phone and had a mini Camino day. A fun walk down memory lane... while feasting on blackberries.

Aleandri Tour

Bath, Somerset, UK Aug 13/17 - A return to this lovely Georgian style built city. Now joined by Camino pal Christian from Copenhagen. And lead by our most gracious host Mark. What tour would be complete without at least a pass by this g&t enthusiast's establishment. (Try to say those two words quickly.) No stopping to indulge. Just peeking in the windows. (Helped that the lights were out and the doors locked.) Ended the day with Shaun Of The Dead in keeping with all things English... add a smidgen of zombie.

Poldark Anyone?

Corsham, Wiltshire, UK - I'm afraid this is what my time on the Camino and now visiting the UK counties of Cornwall, Devon and Wiltshire have amounted to. G&T and Poldark marathon. There's very little more I can say about that. Just a natural progression of events. Along with the combined effect of stones, henges and lay lines. I'm up to 4, 2 minute spurts of jogging in the morning. Life is a weird and wonderful concoction.

Croquet Anyone?

Wells, Somerset, UK Aug 10/17 - A perfectly English day, (this one's for you Jude) with a game of croquet about to begin on the lawn outside the Bishop's Palace, adjacent to the Cathedral (in background). And something new since arriving in the UK - the sun was shining! What more could one ask for? Shopping for a new dress and shoes? Tickets to the theatre? A chance to go flying? Pinch me! On second thought, please don't wake me up.

Stonehenge

Stonehenge, Wiltshire, UK Aug 9/17 - Rain and mist set the stage for a soggy visit to this prehistoric site. Not the spiritual experience one might expect, but captivating nonetheless. There remains no explanation for the ongoing time and effort gone into this massive stone structure, except to highlight our continuing fascination with the universe and our relationship to it... As small, yet highly significant beings. Even the sparrow does not fall to the the earth without notice. (Matthew 10:29)

Ethereal Moment

Bath Abbey, Somerset, UK Aug 7/17 - It's one of those moments when time stands still. Lost in the beauty of this old abbey. Caught up in a display of butterflies, promoting the uniqueness of the individual within a group. Each with our own design and form. Moving together as a swarm in the gentle air currents that help us to migrate from where we are to where we are going. It's easy to lose sight of the single butterfly.

Lesser Known Henge

Avebury, Wiltshire, UK Aug 6/17 - I'm in the land of mysterious stone formations and encircling henges. This one in Avebury is actually the largest in England. And one where you can still get up close and personal with the stones... Walk along a higher than imagined mound, built up from a deep ditch... Encounter a few sheep and Druid like characters... And ponder like generations before the reason behind it all. Nothing mystical to report other than the urge to get up and go for a run today.

The Structure of Things

Lacock, Wiltshire, UK - I find myself in a new county with a new story... And my own little part of that story evolving. I'm with a "mate" from the Camino exploring this old Abbey... turned home... turned museum... turned set for some scenes in Harry Potter. I wonder if the nuns, who came to this room faithfully each day to read one chapter from the bible, had ever contemplated such an eventuality. I wonder at my own series of events that brought me to this place... and the chapters to come.

Sand, Surf, Sun

Paignton Beach, Devon, UK - The essentials for the start of a good day. A bright, wave slapping, coastal walking kind of a day. Add in a thatched roof village, an art centre with working artisans and a woodland stroll. Top it off with over the top amusements including giant Ferris wheel and old fashioned merry-go-round and the day is done. Take out chips and one last walk on the beach while the sun goes behind a cloud and it's good night English Riviera.

Just Another Rainy Day

Kingswear, Devon, UK - What do you do when your head aches and it's pouring rain? On the south coast of Devon, you could go out, get soaked, hop on a bus, cross a river by ferry, go to the very pretty town of Dartmouth, visit the shops dripping wet, dry off and warm up with a latté and chocolate twist pastry, cross back on the ferry, and wait for the bus to take you back to your cosy room with the best hot shower. While waiting you could capture this shot of an old steam engine with a car with your name on it. Zoom in! "Elizabeth"... This was your day!

Evening Stroll

Goodrington, Devon, UK - Not everyday is a grand event, but everyday is new. Today I fell into pace with the name of my guesthouse, Lazy Days. Taking a gentle walk along the coast after feeling poorly early on. Very sad that my beautiful scrambled eggs and smoked salmon breakfast went mostly uneaten. Tragic! Hoping tomorrow's start will be better. Being well cared for here, nonetheless. Thankful for my comfy bed.

On New Shores

Paignton Pier, Devon, UK - Discovered a new coastline today with red sand beaches like Prince Edward Island. And with all kinds of amusements like on this long stretch of pier. Already started a collection of beach glass... My backpack gets heavier with each new offering from the sand. I blame my Camino buddy Balázs for getting me hooked on this new pastime... A very tranquil activity. Good for the soul.

Rainbow Ending

Penberth, Cornwall, UK - It was a picture perfect day with a colourful punctuation mark! For those of you who watch the series Poldark, you may recognize this boat launch site and pretty little cove used in the series. I had a full Cornish day with personal tour guide Caroline who I met at the Atlantic Shore knitwear shop, just along the street from my cottage. A fast made friend, and the pot of gold treasure from my time here in St. Ives. Another goodbye. Onward I go...

The Shops

St. Ives, Cornwall, UK - At any given moment, this is what the little streets look like in the downtown, harbour area. Now imagine a car or delivery van trying to pass through. I learned that the town is mostly made up of visitors and summer residents now. If you go to the local pub, you'll not find locals. And the older, family run businesses are becoming fewer. Seems sad. Makes the tea biscuit from S.H.Ferrell & Son at the corner taste even better. The family is up at 2:30am baking!! That's dedication.

Fisherman's Cottage

The Grey Mullet, St. Ives, Cornwall, UK - This much photographed guesthouse in the heart of a bustling downtown is home for now. Tucked away in the back apartment. I've had my little beach retreat with a lot of rest and just a little walking. Now what? Been looking all day at possible walking tours in England and Wales. And there are many. It's more vast than I ever imagined. And I'm feeling a bit lost. Guess I'll stay cozy in my little "cottage" just a wee bit longer.

To Zen and Back

St. Ives to Zennor Coastal Path, Cornwall, UK July 26/17 - Seemed like a very doable afternoon hike until I realized half way back, and getting tired, that the length of the trek was in miles rather than km. Longer still if I include time spent losing my way, including one very unfortunate and misjudged short cut which ended up being a rabbit trail through neck high brambles. My poor legs were a bloody, muddy mess when I re-emerged onto the proper path. The scars of a true adventurer... Or fool. Otherwise a fun walk, crossing fields, climbing rock steps, cow and sheep encounters... The works!

A Beach Too Long

Porth Kidney Sands, Cornwall, UK - Walked about 4km from St. Ives along Coastal Path to discover this stretch of sand which goes beyond where eye can see and beyond where these legs could go. Stopped by a river running through it! I had met my match. At high tide most of this disappears. At low tide it was an easy walk back, mostly via beach. A good little adventure, finished off with a swim. Finished me off as well. Zonked.

The Sun Was Setting...

St. Ives, Cornwall, UK - "... in the west. The birds were singing on every tree." The birds were indeed singing... In the local church. I was invited to listen in on choir practice... so moved by the spirit and devotion of this lively congregation on Sunday. I returned at the invitation of the music director. I had shared with him my collection of worship songs at eliwordsandmusic.blogspot.com. I came away with a blessing tonight. Hope that there is yet a life for these compositions. "Will you ever heave a sigh and a wish for me?"

(Quotes from the folk song, Farewell To Nova Scotia.)

Morning Beach

St. Ives, Cornwall, UK - My idea of a perfect holiday is having a beach to walk on first thing in the day. Here I think I will have a choice, one for each part of the day. So yeah... A perfect place to vacate to. A little more sun and heat and the scene would be set! I accept all blessings this place has to offer. Including a touch of the spirit in a lovely, warm and welcoming church. A happy follow up to a walk in the sand. What will the week bring?

Cornish Kind of Day

St. Ives, Cornwall, UK - A day that started with full English Breakfast... The works! With place setting and table marked "cottage" just for me. Followed by browsing through all the cute shops, trying on sandals and dresses. And after several hours buying nothing... Came upon a traditional Cornish "Pastie" bakery, choosing a freshly made vegetable one (not the traditional meat one). Strolled some more while nibbling... And came upon the beach... Where, as you can see, I discovered this refreshing Cornish cider. A lady at her leisure in Cornwall. Sweet.

Sea and Sky Welcome

St. Ives, England - After a 9 hour bus ride that turned into 11 (long story), I was welcomed into this picturesque seaside town by a double rainbow. This single one remained as I walked along the waterfront in search of my cottage. Home for the week. It's a sign in the sky of good things to come... Promises fulfilled... I hope! I have mixed feelings on arrival, surrounded now by tourists instead of pilgrims. I will find a quiet path to walk tomorrow and escape the crowds. I'll be fine... No worries!

Day in London

London, England - I asked a London pilgrim, as I was preparing to leave Santiago, what she would recommend for only one day in London. It was to visit the Victoria and Albert Museum. I have to agree now. It was an amazing way to spend the day here. The collection is mind boggling. No way to describe it. You must go! Didn't splurge on a ticket to the Pink Floyd exhibit, but I think it would have been cool. Enjoyed finding my way through London streets with the new love of my life... maps.me app!

Pilgrim Mass

Santiago de Compostela, Spain - Sitting here in the cathedral for the gathering of pilgrims completing their caminos. Remembering this "Mary moment" (July 2) along my own walk across northern Spain. I pray for her heart to touch me and all those I shared this journey with... Both here and abroad. The priest has spoken today of Father God having a Mother's heart. May we be embraced by that and blessed on the road ahead.

Portomarin, Spain (July 6, 2017) It's a two picture day... As I remember dear friends and the "breaking of bread" as we paused from a days walk to rest. Today I come to the Lord's table to receive his bread of life and to rest in him for what is to come. Peace be with us.

Holiday Mode

Muxia, Spain - The brain has switched to relax and even writing comes hard. Today we wait for a bus back to Santiago where we will disperse onto various forms of public transport... The first, not involving feet, in a month and a half. My walking shoes now rest at the bottom of the backpack. Buried. The western point of Spain has been wonderful. A great reward for this challenging, happy adventure. I highly recommend every bit of it... Or even a small bit of it... Or just meet a friend and go for a walk. It's worth it.

Last Day Walking

Muxia, Spain - End of the road. Most westerly point in Spain and of the Camino. I have tread where many have gone before. So I have followed a well worn path, but walked my own unique journey. Just like in life, we are called to the seed of a destiny placed in us. How we grow it is ours to decide. Free will. "You Choose". I'm glad I decided to come here. I'm glad I endured. I'm glad I shared it. I'm happy to say I completed it today! The feet will rest now... Until the next journey begins.

Good Morning Finisterre!

Finisterre, Spain - Ahhh.... Nice sight to wake up to. I'll be on the sand today if anyone needs me. Not planning to do much more than swim and maybe sleep down there. The beach is as soft as talcum powder and the water very cold. Like Carter's Beach in Nova Scotia. But I expect the air will be very hot so a dip or two in the ocean will feel great. Not much more to add to these thoughts for today. Switching brain to "off". Ciao.

Best Day of Walking

Finisterre, Spain - It's the end of my Camino as I know it, and I feel fine! Love being back on the Atlantic, looking west for a change. Going to enjoy a couple of days here on the beach. Just sun, sand and ocean. And bask in the company of a few good friends I will soon have to say so long to. We have one tiny (29km) walk to go, just to say we truly reached the most westerly point - Muxia. But that can wait. Time for a well earned holiday on this beautiful coast of Spain.

Cow Camino

O Logoso, Spain - We noticed these cow's coming out of the barn and stopped to take a picture, but got hurried along because they were about to join us on the Camino. This is one last look before they took their path toward pasture land. As I write this, our day is done and we're enjoying multiple vino tinto, wrapped in blankets and about ready to call it a night. Just two more days of walking before something new begins. Heading toward new pasture land. The cows know what they need and where they're headed to find it. It seems more complicated for us.

Moving On

Vilaserio, Spain - One look back at Santiago as we go forward. Just four of us - Me, Balazs, Christian and Rob. Walking on a quiet Camino again toward Finisterre (end of the world). Looking forward to a quick dip in the Atlantic before saying I'm done here. We had a long day, walking 34km, the most yet. And I'll add... Never again... I hope. The next two days will be a bit shorter and less exhausting. Feeling ready now for a nice easy holiday in a cottage by the beach!

Final Shot of Santiago

Santiago de Compostela, Spain - Rest day. Lazy day of shopping and walking about. A day for saying good-byes... Until we meet again. A final moment caught in time as we head back to our albergue. It's currently 1:11am and Balazs and I will rise around 6am to begin our walk to Finisterre. It wasn't easy saying goodnight to Victor and Bruna. They will go in a rental car to the coast because their time is limited. A new journey begins in the morning. It's all good.

Grand Finale

Santiago de Compostela, Spain! - Wish I could figure out how to send the video of this. A great rock'n'roll finish to a long walk. Had an extraordinary night celebrating with fellow pilgrims - spirited music and drink. Getting to bed late but it's a once in a lifetime kind of a thing. I have scheduled myself to be the snorer tonight so only I can sleep. We'll see how that goes. Tomorrow we rest here and then we head to the coast. Walk or drive? This is the question. Likely on foot... We are peregrinos after all. Goodnight! Buen Camino!

Race To Finish

O Pedrouzo, Spain - Second last day on the Camino. Since around the 100km mark near Sarria, the pathway has gotten busy with school groups and others walking in a shorter time frame. Today a half marathon of runners passed through, catching us by surprise. Nearly run over by the first and fastest of the pack. Impressive athletes, but a bit disruptive to a contemplative journey. With the end in sight, I feel less excited than at the beginning. Wondering perhaps....What was this about? We'll see what the finish brings tomorrow. Certainly a bit of relief!

Pulpo Champions

Arzua, Spain - For those of you who don't speak Spanish... We're talking octopus here. We passed though a town well known for serving up this pan fried delicacy. Victor, on the right is from Spain (Palencia) and says it's in his top 10 favourite dishes. Balazs from Hungary, on the left, is trying it for the first time and being a real sport. I helped only a little and Victor finished it off. Did I mention that this is breakfast!! Only in Spain. We're in the Galicia region known for its seafood. On the Atlantic. Just like home. I'll stick with lobster. 😋

Thick of Fog

Casanova, Spain - A walk in the fog. Like in life, you see the step before you and not much more. The rest is hazy at best. Dense with possibility and uncertainty. And then the sun breaks through. The cloud lifts and one enjoys pristine clarity. Even if it only lasts a moment, it is precious. The worries evaporate. The little annoyances melt away to nothingness, where they belong. There are moments like these on the Camino. However, most of the time the only thought is about the next footstep.

Thunder Struck

Gonzar, Spain - We went an extra 8km today and were treated to some great rumbles, and bolts of light, complete with pea size hail stones! The sun returned, bathing us in sauna like heat, while we stepped around the newly formed streams. With just 4 days remaining, the Camino is giving us a good show. Thankfully a picnic in the park at Portomarin fortified us for the coming sky burst.

Holy Cow

Barbadelo, Spain - I had to remind myself today, "I love the mountains!" The uphill climbs will at times demand more breath than I think I have to give. The sightings of livestock give a little boost as we weave our way through the great hills. "Now I lay me down with cows", a prayer began in my head. The rest was funny but forgotten now. The fog has been thick and wet, and has brought an eerie beauty to the landscape and to our walk. Enjoying a little quiet while the others dine this evening. Sweet reverie. "My soul to keep...".

More Climbing

Triacastela, Spain  July 4/17 - One month walking! We've been at a high altitude for what seems like a few days now, and word is that we have some climbing to do again in the morning. So a little comic relief goes a long way. We have entered the region of Galicia and are resting tonight in a picturesque valley with prime terrain for grazing and growing. I've been enjoying the company of Bruna (Brazil), Victor (Spain) and Balazs (Hungary) - a little sub-group of the larger U.N. of the Camino - ... And my first G & T before bed.