Paignton Pier, Devon, UK - Discovered a new coastline today with red sand beaches like Prince Edward Island. And with all kinds of amusements like on this long stretch of pier. Already started a collection of beach glass... My backpack gets heavier with each new offering from the sand. I blame my Camino buddy Balázs for getting me hooked on this new pastime... A very tranquil activity. Good for the soul.
My 40 day walk along the El Camino de Santiago... and then a bit of knocking about the UK. June - August 2017.
Monday, 31 July 2017
Rainbow Ending
Penberth, Cornwall, UK - It was a picture perfect day with a colourful punctuation mark! For those of you who watch the series Poldark, you may recognize this boat launch site and pretty little cove used in the series. I had a full Cornish day with personal tour guide Caroline who I met at the Atlantic Shore knitwear shop, just along the street from my cottage. A fast made friend, and the pot of gold treasure from my time here in St. Ives. Another goodbye. Onward I go...
Saturday, 29 July 2017
The Shops
St. Ives, Cornwall, UK - At any given moment, this is what the little streets look like in the downtown, harbour area. Now imagine a car or delivery van trying to pass through. I learned that the town is mostly made up of visitors and summer residents now. If you go to the local pub, you'll not find locals. And the older, family run businesses are becoming fewer. Seems sad. Makes the tea biscuit from S.H.Ferrell & Son at the corner taste even better. The family is up at 2:30am baking!! That's dedication.
Thursday, 27 July 2017
Fisherman's Cottage
The Grey Mullet, St. Ives, Cornwall, UK - This much photographed guesthouse in the heart of a bustling downtown is home for now. Tucked away in the back apartment. I've had my little beach retreat with a lot of rest and just a little walking. Now what? Been looking all day at possible walking tours in England and Wales. And there are many. It's more vast than I ever imagined. And I'm feeling a bit lost. Guess I'll stay cozy in my little "cottage" just a wee bit longer.
To Zen and Back
St. Ives to Zennor Coastal Path, Cornwall, UK July 26/17 - Seemed like a very doable afternoon hike until I realized half way back, and getting tired, that the length of the trek was in miles rather than km. Longer still if I include time spent losing my way, including one very unfortunate and misjudged short cut which ended up being a rabbit trail through neck high brambles. My poor legs were a bloody, muddy mess when I re-emerged onto the proper path. The scars of a true adventurer... Or fool. Otherwise a fun walk, crossing fields, climbing rock steps, cow and sheep encounters... The works!
Tuesday, 25 July 2017
A Beach Too Long
Porth Kidney Sands, Cornwall, UK - Walked about 4km from St. Ives along Coastal Path to discover this stretch of sand which goes beyond where eye can see and beyond where these legs could go. Stopped by a river running through it! I had met my match. At high tide most of this disappears. At low tide it was an easy walk back, mostly via beach. A good little adventure, finished off with a swim. Finished me off as well. Zonked.
Monday, 24 July 2017
The Sun Was Setting...
St. Ives, Cornwall, UK - "... in the west. The birds were singing on every tree." The birds were indeed singing... In the local church. I was invited to listen in on choir practice... so moved by the spirit and devotion of this lively congregation on Sunday. I returned at the invitation of the music director. I had shared with him my collection of worship songs at eliwordsandmusic.blogspot.com. I came away with a blessing tonight. Hope that there is yet a life for these compositions. "Will you ever heave a sigh and a wish for me?"
(Quotes from the folk song, Farewell To Nova Scotia.)
Sunday, 23 July 2017
Morning Beach
St. Ives, Cornwall, UK - My idea of a perfect holiday is having a beach to walk on first thing in the day. Here I think I will have a choice, one for each part of the day. So yeah... A perfect place to vacate to. A little more sun and heat and the scene would be set! I accept all blessings this place has to offer. Including a touch of the spirit in a lovely, warm and welcoming church. A happy follow up to a walk in the sand. What will the week bring?
Saturday, 22 July 2017
Cornish Kind of Day
St. Ives, Cornwall, UK - A day that started with full English Breakfast... The works! With place setting and table marked "cottage" just for me. Followed by browsing through all the cute shops, trying on sandals and dresses. And after several hours buying nothing... Came upon a traditional Cornish "Pastie" bakery, choosing a freshly made vegetable one (not the traditional meat one). Strolled some more while nibbling... And came upon the beach... Where, as you can see, I discovered this refreshing Cornish cider. A lady at her leisure in Cornwall. Sweet.
Friday, 21 July 2017
Sea and Sky Welcome
St. Ives, England - After a 9 hour bus ride that turned into 11 (long story), I was welcomed into this picturesque seaside town by a double rainbow. This single one remained as I walked along the waterfront in search of my cottage. Home for the week. It's a sign in the sky of good things to come... Promises fulfilled... I hope! I have mixed feelings on arrival, surrounded now by tourists instead of pilgrims. I will find a quiet path to walk tomorrow and escape the crowds. I'll be fine... No worries!
Thursday, 20 July 2017
Day in London
London, England - I asked a London pilgrim, as I was preparing to leave Santiago, what she would recommend for only one day in London. It was to visit the Victoria and Albert Museum. I have to agree now. It was an amazing way to spend the day here. The collection is mind boggling. No way to describe it. You must go! Didn't splurge on a ticket to the Pink Floyd exhibit, but I think it would have been cool. Enjoyed finding my way through London streets with the new love of my life... maps.me app!
Pilgrim Mass
Santiago de Compostela, Spain - Sitting here in the cathedral for the gathering of pilgrims completing their caminos. Remembering this "Mary moment" (July 2) along my own walk across northern Spain. I pray for her heart to touch me and all those I shared this journey with... Both here and abroad. The priest has spoken today of Father God having a Mother's heart. May we be embraced by that and blessed on the road ahead.
Portomarin, Spain (July 6, 2017) It's a two picture day... As I remember dear friends and the "breaking of bread" as we paused from a days walk to rest. Today I come to the Lord's table to receive his bread of life and to rest in him for what is to come. Peace be with us.
Monday, 17 July 2017
Holiday Mode
Muxia, Spain - The brain has switched to relax and even writing comes hard. Today we wait for a bus back to Santiago where we will disperse onto various forms of public transport... The first, not involving feet, in a month and a half. My walking shoes now rest at the bottom of the backpack. Buried. The western point of Spain has been wonderful. A great reward for this challenging, happy adventure. I highly recommend every bit of it... Or even a small bit of it... Or just meet a friend and go for a walk. It's worth it.
Last Day Walking
Muxia, Spain - End of the road. Most westerly point in Spain and of the Camino. I have tread where many have gone before. So I have followed a well worn path, but walked my own unique journey. Just like in life, we are called to the seed of a destiny placed in us. How we grow it is ours to decide. Free will. "You Choose". I'm glad I decided to come here. I'm glad I endured. I'm glad I shared it. I'm happy to say I completed it today! The feet will rest now... Until the next journey begins.
Saturday, 15 July 2017
Good Morning Finisterre!
Finisterre, Spain - Ahhh.... Nice sight to wake up to. I'll be on the sand today if anyone needs me. Not planning to do much more than swim and maybe sleep down there. The beach is as soft as talcum powder and the water very cold. Like Carter's Beach in Nova Scotia. But I expect the air will be very hot so a dip or two in the ocean will feel great. Not much more to add to these thoughts for today. Switching brain to "off". Ciao.
Friday, 14 July 2017
Best Day of Walking
Finisterre, Spain - It's the end of my Camino as I know it, and I feel fine! Love being back on the Atlantic, looking west for a change. Going to enjoy a couple of days here on the beach. Just sun, sand and ocean. And bask in the company of a few good friends I will soon have to say so long to. We have one tiny (29km) walk to go, just to say we truly reached the most westerly point - Muxia. But that can wait. Time for a well earned holiday on this beautiful coast of Spain.
Thursday, 13 July 2017
Cow Camino
O Logoso, Spain - We noticed these cow's coming out of the barn and stopped to take a picture, but got hurried along because they were about to join us on the Camino. This is one last look before they took their path toward pasture land. As I write this, our day is done and we're enjoying multiple vino tinto, wrapped in blankets and about ready to call it a night. Just two more days of walking before something new begins. Heading toward new pasture land. The cows know what they need and where they're headed to find it. It seems more complicated for us.
Moving On
Vilaserio, Spain - One look back at Santiago as we go forward. Just four of us - Me, Balazs, Christian and Rob. Walking on a quiet Camino again toward Finisterre (end of the world). Looking forward to a quick dip in the Atlantic before saying I'm done here. We had a long day, walking 34km, the most yet. And I'll add... Never again... I hope. The next two days will be a bit shorter and less exhausting. Feeling ready now for a nice easy holiday in a cottage by the beach!
Tuesday, 11 July 2017
Final Shot of Santiago
Santiago de Compostela, Spain - Rest day. Lazy day of shopping and walking about. A day for saying good-byes... Until we meet again. A final moment caught in time as we head back to our albergue. It's currently 1:11am and Balazs and I will rise around 6am to begin our walk to Finisterre. It wasn't easy saying goodnight to Victor and Bruna. They will go in a rental car to the coast because their time is limited. A new journey begins in the morning. It's all good.
Monday, 10 July 2017
Grand Finale
Santiago de Compostela, Spain! - Wish I could figure out how to send the video of this. A great rock'n'roll finish to a long walk. Had an extraordinary night celebrating with fellow pilgrims - spirited music and drink. Getting to bed late but it's a once in a lifetime kind of a thing. I have scheduled myself to be the snorer tonight so only I can sleep. We'll see how that goes. Tomorrow we rest here and then we head to the coast. Walk or drive? This is the question. Likely on foot... We are peregrinos after all. Goodnight! Buen Camino!
Sunday, 9 July 2017
Race To Finish
O Pedrouzo, Spain - Second last day on the Camino. Since around the 100km mark near Sarria, the pathway has gotten busy with school groups and others walking in a shorter time frame. Today a half marathon of runners passed through, catching us by surprise. Nearly run over by the first and fastest of the pack. Impressive athletes, but a bit disruptive to a contemplative journey. With the end in sight, I feel less excited than at the beginning. Wondering perhaps....What was this about? We'll see what the finish brings tomorrow. Certainly a bit of relief!
Saturday, 8 July 2017
Pulpo Champions
Arzua, Spain - For those of you who don't speak Spanish... We're talking octopus here. We passed though a town well known for serving up this pan fried delicacy. Victor, on the right is from Spain (Palencia) and says it's in his top 10 favourite dishes. Balazs from Hungary, on the left, is trying it for the first time and being a real sport. I helped only a little and Victor finished it off. Did I mention that this is breakfast!! Only in Spain. We're in the Galicia region known for its seafood. On the Atlantic. Just like home. I'll stick with lobster. 😋
Friday, 7 July 2017
Thick of Fog
Casanova, Spain - A walk in the fog. Like in life, you see the step before you and not much more. The rest is hazy at best. Dense with possibility and uncertainty. And then the sun breaks through. The cloud lifts and one enjoys pristine clarity. Even if it only lasts a moment, it is precious. The worries evaporate. The little annoyances melt away to nothingness, where they belong. There are moments like these on the Camino. However, most of the time the only thought is about the next footstep.
Thursday, 6 July 2017
Thunder Struck
Gonzar, Spain - We went an extra 8km today and were treated to some great rumbles, and bolts of light, complete with pea size hail stones! The sun returned, bathing us in sauna like heat, while we stepped around the newly formed streams. With just 4 days remaining, the Camino is giving us a good show. Thankfully a picnic in the park at Portomarin fortified us for the coming sky burst.
Wednesday, 5 July 2017
Holy Cow
Barbadelo, Spain - I had to remind myself today, "I love the mountains!" The uphill climbs will at times demand more breath than I think I have to give. The sightings of livestock give a little boost as we weave our way through the great hills. "Now I lay me down with cows", a prayer began in my head. The rest was funny but forgotten now. The fog has been thick and wet, and has brought an eerie beauty to the landscape and to our walk. Enjoying a little quiet while the others dine this evening. Sweet reverie. "My soul to keep...".
Tuesday, 4 July 2017
More Climbing
Triacastela, Spain July 4/17 - One month walking! We've been at a high altitude for what seems like a few days now, and word is that we have some climbing to do again in the morning. So a little comic relief goes a long way. We have entered the region of Galicia and are resting tonight in a picturesque valley with prime terrain for grazing and growing. I've been enjoying the company of Bruna (Brazil), Victor (Spain) and Balazs (Hungary) - a little sub-group of the larger U.N. of the Camino - ... And my first G & T before bed.
Monday, 3 July 2017
One Last Mountain
La Faba, Spain - Heading out this morning, we knew we had a final climb near the end of the day. So after about 5 hours walking, and as the sun settled in directly above us, we began to go up... And up... And up. A major workout for body, mind, soul and spirit. And as with most days, the reward at the end is another sort of "spirit" along with the good cheer of all those who have risen above this days particular challenge. Tomorrow will have it's own "mountain". For now we celebrate today. Cheers!
Sunday, 2 July 2017
Panoramic Rest
Villa Franca del Bierzo - I learned the trick of shooting a panoramic picture today from a new pal Jose, originally from Peru. Tested it at one of our rest stops on this hammock hung amongst poplar trees. Sparkling shade and musical leaves. Calming for the body. Tranquility for the soul. Just like we had at our family camp on Heckman's Island, NS, Canada... Poplar Place. A nice little interlude back in time.
Saturday, 1 July 2017
I Love The Mountains
Molinaseca, Spain - I was so happy today. We reached the highest (and coldest) part of the Camino. It may have been the change in air pressure that gave me a burst of energy. I began the descent like a gazelle, quick and light on foot. Navigating the rocks and turns with ease. The reward at the end of the day has been sunshine and a return to shorts and t's. Even the locals enjoyed a bit of sunbathing and waterplay by the river that runs through the village. Happy 150th Canada!
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Starting Point
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Every journey has a starting point. Mine starts here in Pamplona, standing by the yellow scallop shell symbol that marks the route of the ...
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